A simple guide based on the mistakes we made — and what we use today.
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When we started 3D printing our magnetic frames and ornaments, something as basic as choosing the right glue turned into a lesson we had to learn the hard way. Here's what we found out, so hopefully you don't have to find out the same way.
The Problem We Ran Into With Super Glue
Early on, we tried super glue and several other fast-setting adhesives to secure our 8x3mm magnets. From a strength standpoint, most of them worked great.
The problem wasn't the bond. It was what showed up around the bond as the adhesive cured.
We started noticing a white, cloudy, frosted-looking residue around the frame magnets and across parts of our finished prints. On certain filament colors it was impossible to miss, and it could ruin an otherwise perfect frame.
There's a name for it: cyanoacrylate blooming, also called blushing or frosting. Cyanoacrylate is the adhesive technology behind most common super glues, and as it cures, vapor from the adhesive can settle on nearby surfaces and leave a white haze. Using too much adhesive, high humidity, and poor ventilation all make it more likely.
After spending hours printing a frame, the last thing we wanted was to wreck it on one of the final assembly steps. So we went looking for something else.
What We Use Today
After testing alternatives, we landed on a clear Gorilla adhesive, and it's worked extremely well for our application.
The important part for us: a strong bond between the metal disc and the printed frame, without the white clouding we ran into with the super glues we tested. It's inexpensive, easy to find, and it's been part of our standard frame and ornament assembly ever since.
Important: Gorilla makes several different adhesive formulas, and they don't all apply or cure the same way. Confirm exactly which product you have and follow the instructions printed on that specific bottle.
🔗 The adhesive we use: Linked Here
To be clear there are many great options on the market and even adhesive formulas that are formulated specifically to 3D printing and we'll be sure to link that below as well!
🔗 3D Printing Adhesive Alternative: Linked here
Why We Still Glue Adhesive-Backed Discs
A lot of the metal discs we use already come with an adhesive backing. So why add glue?
The backing is genuinely useful — it holds the disc in position in the pocket and makes installation easy. But for a long-term bond on a product we're putting our name on, we don't like relying on it alone. We add a small amount of glue as extra security.
We've assembled a large number of frames this way with excellent results.
Our process
- Clean the disc pocket. Clear out loose filament, dust, grease, or debris that could interfere with the bond.
- Apply a small amount of glue. You don't need to fill the pocket. Excess adhesive squeezes out around the disc and makes a mess.
- Install the disc. Position it in the pocket and press firmly into place.
- Wipe away excess immediately. Cleanup is far easier before the adhesive cures.
- Let it cure fully. The disc may feel secure within minutes, but initial tack is not a fully cured bond. Follow the manufacturer's stated cure time before putting the frame into normal use.
Don't Use Too Much Glue
This one earns its own section, because more glue does not mean a better bond.
We're securing a small metal disc inside a pocket designed to hold it. A small, controlled amount is all it takes. Too much adhesive just increases the odds of squeeze-out onto the finished surface of your print.
The goal: enough adhesive to reinforce the bond, not enough to flood the pocket.
Why Our STL Files Are Moving to Standard Disc Pockets
Some of our earlier STL designs used a tight snap-in metal disc pocket. We put real work into that design, and paired with the specific discs we use, it works extremely well.
But a tight tolerance creates its own problem: not every manufacturer's "30 mm" disc actually measures the same. Small variations between suppliers and between batches are normal, and with a mechanical snap-fit, even a small difference changes how the disc seats.
We don't want customers locked into buying one very specific disc from us just because it's the only one that fits their file.
So we're transitioning our STL designs to a more forgiving standard metal disc pocket. You install the appropriate disc and use a small amount of adhesive for a secure, long-term bond. That gives you the flexibility to source compatible discs from us, from Amazon, from another supplier, or locally when suitable hardware is available.
Tip: If you're sourcing discs elsewhere, a basic pair of digital calipers is well worth having. Confirm actual diameter and thickness before you commit to printing a large batch of frames.
🔗 The calipers we use: Linked Here
🔗 30 mm metal discs: Linked Here
🔗 40 mm metal discs: Linked Here
Hardware Options: 30 mm, 40 mm, and 8x3 mm Neodymium Magnets
Different ImpressiPrint designs call for different hardware. Many of our smaller frames and ornaments use 30 mm discs, while several of our larger magnet formats use 40 mm.
Always check the hardware information included with the specific STL file you're printing rather than assuming every design uses the same disc.
Some designs are also available with an 8 × 3 mm neodymium magnet pocket instead of a metal disc pocket. Which option makes sense depends on the design, the magnet being displayed, and how much holding force you need.
Want your files tailored to a neodymium magnet instead?
We design, model, and print everything in house. Nothing is outsourced, which means we have full access to our own source files and can modify them on request.
If you'd rather run an 8 × 3 mm neodymium magnet than a metal center disc, just reach out after your purchase and we'll tailor your files for you. Tell us which design you bought, your order number, and which hardware you want, and we'll send over the adjusted STL.
An honest warning before you choose
An 8 × 3 mm neodymium magnet works well on smaller frames and ornaments. On larger formats it does not.
A metal disc gives your magnet a wide contact area to grab. An 8 mm magnet concentrates all of that holding force into one small point in the center. On a bigger magnet, the added weight and the leverage at the outer edges will overwhelm that single contact point — the corners lift, the piece sags, and it can slide or fall off the frame entirely.
We do not recommend the 8 × 3 mm option for larger magnet formats, including:
- 2" × 3" / 53x80mm
- 2.5" × 3.5" / 65x90mm
- 3" × 3" / 80x80mm
For those sizes, stick with the metal disc pocket. That's what the design was engineered around, and it's what we use in our own production.
If you're unsure which way to go for a particular design, ask us before you print. We'd rather answer a quick question than have you burn filament on a frame that won't hold.
Test First
Filament type, print settings, surface finish, and hardware all interact with adhesives differently.
Before you assemble a large batch, test your adhesive and installation method on a single printed part. Let it cure completely, inspect the surrounding print for discoloration or damage, and check the bond.
That's exactly how we developed most of the processes we use today.
A very Important Note: Ensure you remove the protective blue film and rear adhesive side white backing paper before installation.
Why We're Sharing This
We learned these lessons through trial and error. We've ruined prints. We've tested materials that didn't behave the way we expected. We've redesigned hardware pockets and changed our assembly process more than once.
We'd rather pass that along than keep it to ourselves. The goal with these guides is to help other magnet makers and 3D-printing customers skip a few of the mistakes we made getting started.
No paid course, no gated download. We'll keep adding free guides, videos, tools, and resources on topics like:
- Magnet installation
- Maintaining consistent magnet polarity
- Helpful 3D-printing tools
- Hardware selection
- Recommended beginner supplies
- Common printing and assembly mistakes
Affiliate Disclosure
ImpressiPrint is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases.
Some of the links in this guide are affiliate links. If you click one and make a purchase, we may receive a small commission — the price you pay is exactly the same either way. We only recommend products we use in our own production process or have tested ourselves, and a commission never influences what we recommend. Product availability, pricing, and formulations can change at any time, so always verify the item and read the manufacturer's instructions before purchase and use.
A Final Note
This guide covers what has worked for our own production process. Adhesive performance varies with filament, hardware, print surface, and the specific adhesive you're using.
Always follow the adhesive manufacturer's application, ventilation, safety, and full-cure instructions, and test any new combination before running it across a large production batch.
Hope this saves you a few headaches — and maybe a few ruined prints. 😊
— ImpressiPrint